…is not pizza per se (and not served at the past-it Per Se, for that matter), though dough is involved, and it is absolute ambrosia. It’s found at Bread & Co., a bright new outpost on 24th Street and Ninth Avenue, in the shadow of various housing project buildings. It’s less about the toppings, though they’re there, from pecorino to pork sausage, than the fluffy but crispy, almost erotically burned-at-the-edge crust. Tomato sauce with fresh-crushed tomatoes that taste like they just fell off a vine somewhere south of Napoli. Homemade gelato served in little paper cups make for the perfect finish. So take your place in the line and cancel that trip to Italy. Did we just say that? Sure did. Just remember, like many great cultural institutions, this place shuts down Mondays.
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